Set in a sprawling country estate with a gentle grasp on the Cotswolds just moments away from Cheltenham, a long driveway lined with neatly coiffured hedgerows leads to The Greenway Hotel & Spa.
Resident to the same lineage from its construction in 1584 until 1854, after just three subsequent owners, it opened as a luxury hotel in 1945. Relatively untouched, the Elizabethan architecture still reigns throughout the grand Grade II-listed 16th-century manor.
With a tour to get our bearings, we are greeted like family. A sunbathed lounge is dotted with invitingly squashy sofas, ushering your gaze across manicured gardens. Aside sits a small yet perfectly curated bar with local spirits and some impressive whiskeys waiting for later that evening. The restaurant takes its spot at the back of the property, a beautiful modern extension of the building featuring original elements of the exterior, overlooking the patioed gardens and ponds. Passing a chilled wine display in the long hall, I take note of a couple of bottles to explore on the list later that evening, and we are shown to the spa.
A cocoon of relaxation set with Cotswold Stone, the thermal suite collates a hydrotherapy pool featuring a slightly warmer-than-average temperature, a rolling current and massage jets. Alongside the trio of sauna, sanarium and steam rooms, its intention is pure relaxation. With my first action already pre-planned, and my Camille Hunza G swimwear strategically at the top of my Carl Friedrik Palissy Weekender, I was back ordering a glass of Veuve Clicquot Rosé N.V. before you could whisper “out of office”, intent on firmly parking myself for the duration of the afternoon.
The Greenway Spa
In a sunny walled garden, hemmed by mossy rooftops and chimney pots, shrouded by palms and olive plants, one will find a vitality pool. On a blessedly hushed midweek midafternoon, my slightly longer-than-recommended time enjoying the cool bubbles in my glass, warming massage jets to my back, and idle conversation with my partner was, in my humble opinion, time very well spent.
With an afternoon leisurely consumed, I readied for dinner. Still in my towel and lingering on the sofa with a glass of Gusbourne Brut Reserve, I took in our room. I dislike leaving my home for a stay that isn’t quite distinctly better, and we are lavished with the most luxurious on the ledger.
Flooded with evening light, the spacious setting presents both a sofa at the foot of the bed and paired armchairs at the window, situated to look across the hills. Joined with a faultlessly immense bed, I later found that with even the most antisocial of sleeping positions, I could barely reach across to my partner. We also find a beautiful bathroom with marble and gold detailing, a rolltop bath, and a rain shower for two.
The Greenway Hotel & Spa, Feature Room
Taking inspiration from its past as a family home, warmth radiates throughout the details. A white marble fireplace is surrounded by Delft-style tiles and stone window frames are inlaid with muntin windows. Soft sage walls are laced with frame wall moulding set with gold-framed Tudor floral prints, and furnishings of textured velvet in olive and coral tones mix with floral tapestry. It’s a perfect study on how to explore a building’s heritage, whilst maintaining a chic modern-day relevance.
Dining is held in the Garden Room, a triple rosette AA restaurant, by head chef Abhijit Dasalkar, who considers, in his words, “fresh, seasonal, bold, authentic flavours”. Always hungry for this exact combination, we order a shared starter selection, whilst devouring a salutation of lemon sourdough and marmite butter.
We are met with an earthy beetroot terrine, layered with tart pickled beetroot, steamed golden and crisp white beets, topped with silky whipped goats’ curd and peppery microgreens. An umami-filled crab bisque is accompanied by a pastry topped with avocado cream and shredded crab, finished with pickled ginger and preserved lemon. A torched mackerel arrived in a design of egg yolk gel, avocado puree, wasabi yoghurt, pickled kohlrabi and a saline soy dressing, every texture perfectly offset.
The Orchard Brasserie
With each dish as explorative and exciting as the next, we move on to our mains. A risotto of rice and wheat, drizzled with truffle pesto, was topped with manchego and textures of artichoke, where root, bulb and flower, each prepared differently, compensate for the richness of its base. Roast strip Exmoor Angus beef was joined by seared king oyster mushroom, topped with toasted yeast, set alongside smoked cheese mash and sweet glazed carrot, and dressed with braising liquid. A subtle echo of a Sunday roast, sans the weight.
The next day offers a second afternoon to potter around the Greenway Spa. Starting with a treatment at the Elan Spa, I decided upon the Drift Power, a harmonious combination of the Drift Away massage incorporating the Drift Away massage and Power Breakfast facial. All in all, it’s a glorious buffet of aspects, with a back, neck and shoulder, facial and scalp massage, combined with a facial cleanse and scrub, all with the inimitable Temple Spa product range.
Our final evening saw us heading into Cheltenham to visit Prithvi, a Michelin guide restaurant headed up by a double-Michelin-star-trained Head Chef, Thomas Law. Top of the listings for restaurants on TripAdvisor, this modern eatery takes inspiration from Indian cuisine with a deep understanding of flavour and ingredients, in an intimate and luxurious setting. Service is sharp as we are guided through a seven-course tasting menu, deconstructing traditional dishes and reimagining ingredients. A standout dish has to be the Chettinad Cauliflower, with black garlic, tamarind and coconut… be sure to listen to the dish before you dive in.
The Greenway Hotel & Spa
After another perfect night’s sleep, we have breakfast in the Garden Room, taking in the last of the sunrise and scanning for deer in the distance. With the Cotswolds at your doorstep, outdoor activities are boundless, and The Greenway Hack was our morning endeavour, a two-and-a-half-mile walk across a pre-Roman route through meadows and over the hillside we’d admired from the manor, with panoramic views of Cheltenham.
A spa break can be many things. Recharging with your closest friends, time with a family member, or a romantic getaway with your love. In any way, a couple of days away from the world without distraction, immersed in quiet company, is surely food for the soul, and The Greenway offers this comfort in abundance.
Shop the story
The iconic swimwear and ready-to-wear brand celebrated its 40th anniversary last year. Synonymous with feel-good, timeless designs, it brings the 80s silhouette to the forefront of your summer wardrobe.
Featuring everywhere, from The Gentlemen to The White Lotus, Succession, to Gangs Of London, the London-born travel name Carl Friedrik is the name of quiet luxury, with sophisticated design combined with effortless design. The Palissy Weekender is the silent symbol of the luxury traveller.
Heritage British skincare brand Temple Spa brings Mediterranean inspiration to 25 years of innovation and technology. From breakthrough ingredients to botanical extracts, their products deliver powerful results which remain true to a luxurious experience.
Hailing from the Kent-based estate founded in 2004, their best-selling wine 2021 vintage combines orchard and stone fruit, as aromas of strawberry and cherry move to notes of fresh pastry and warming cinnamon spice over a fresh citrus palette with a long finish.
For further details, visit The Greenway Hotel & Spa, or Visit Cheltenham.
