Nestled just a few hours north of the renowned golfing haven of the Algarve in the Lisboa e Vale de Tejo region of Portugal, lies the exquisite Sintra-Cascais Nature Park. This area, with its stunning landscapes stretching from coastal towns to lush countryside, is a paradise for nature lovers and those seeking a tranquil yet vibrant escape.
At the heart of this verdant expanse, in the southern foothills of the Sintra Mountains, I discovered the Penha Longa Resort; a sanctuary that beautifully marries luxury with the great outdoors and boasts one of the top 30 golf courses in Continental Europe and among the top 10 in Portugal.
Penha Longa, once a hidden monastery, now boasts a prestigious five-star hotel, a challenging 27-hole golf course, a Zen inspired spa and an array of seven delectable restaurants – two of which hold much-coveted Michelin stars. Despite its modern amenities, the resort has managed to retain an aura of seclusion and charm, making it a rather idyllic retreat – how could I possibly resist?
Golfing at Penha Longa: A Natural Symphony
The resort’s crowning glory is undoubtedly its two golf courses: the Penha Longa Championship Atlântico and the nine-hole Mosteiro. Both were masterfully designed by the esteemed architect Robert Trent Jones Jr. in 1992 and 1995, respectively.
Penha Longa Championship Atlântico:
This 18-hole course quickly ascended to the top ranks of Portuguese golf courses, and hosted the Portuguese Open in 1994. The design is a testament to Trent Jones Jr.’s genius; it skilfully incorporates the natural contours and elements of the landscape, creating a course that is as challenging as it is beautiful. The fairways wind like a river through the valleys and hills, offering stunning vistas at every turn.
It’s a course that offers a profound connection with nature. The lush greenery seemed almost cinematic as the forests swayed on the distant hills, coming alive under the influence of the Atlantic winds. Towering pine trees and strategically placed bunkers present are as beautiful as they are engaging, urging players to make thoughtful decisions at every shot. The sand grade in the bunkers is soft enough to trap you – be warned.
One of the most striking aspects of the course is the sense of solitude it provides. Rarely did I encounter another player during play, allowing me to immerse myself fully in the natural surroundings. This sense of isolation fundamentally enhances the experience, making each round feel like a journey through a rare and pristine landscape.
The course also pays homage to its historical roots. The famous par-five on the sixth hole, where the green is nestled between a lake and mediaeval archways, offers a glimpse into the past while challenging the present-day golfer. The weather here, however, can be a formidable adversary. The same winds that breathe life into the valley views can turn a straightforward hole into a Herculean task. This is especially true on the 15th hole, where a 155-metre carry over water tests both skill and nerve.
The shorter Mosteiro nine-hole course is no less impressive. Named after the monastery (Mosteiro) around which it weaves, it offers a unique blend of historical ambiance and golfing challenge. Once again, Trent Jones Jr. has used the natural flow of the land to create a course that tests even the most seasoned golfers. Fairway and greenside bunkers are strategically placed to ensure that each shot requires precision and thought, perfect for those seeking to perfect their swing amid spectacular surrounds.
A Haven of Luxury and History
Beyond the golf courses, the Penha Longa Resort offers an array of luxurious amenities. The newly refurbished five-star hotel is equipped with both indoor and outdoor swimming pools, a fully outfitted gym, jacuzzi, and other modern comforts. The architecture of the hotel is designed to harmonise with the surrounding historical structures, ensuring that the 14th-century monastery remains the focal point.
The monastery, now a venue for weddings and events, adds a layer of nostalgic richness to the overall resort. Walking through its ancient halls, adorned with original hand-painted tiles and featuring a grand 2.5-metre tall open fireplace, you’re transported back to a time when monks prepared their meals in the same kitchens. It’s a blend of historical authenticity and modern functionality, resulting in a breathtaking venue for any event.
Culinary Delights
If the golf courses are the heart of Penha Longa, its culinary offerings are the soul. The resort boasts seven restaurants – including two Michelin-starred establishments – ensuring guests are spoiled for choice should they find enough time between rounds to dine.
Arola
After a challenging round of golf, the clubhouse restaurant Arola offers a strong blend of traditional Portuguese cuisine with contemporary flair. The menu, a creation of renowned chef Sergi Arola, combines old-school and new-school elements, delivering dishes that are both impressively forward-thinking and yet rooted in heritage. The waitstaff’s passion for food is evident in their impassioned explanations of each dish’s provenance. Despite its gourmet credentials, Arola maintains a relaxed atmosphere, allowing guests to dine comfortably in their golf attire or casual wear.
Spices
This pan-Asian restaurant offers a culinary journey through Thailand, Vietnam, China and Japan. The elegant interior design, coupled with views of the meticulously kept gardens, creates a serene dining environment. Each dish can be expertly paired with a local Portuguese wine, with recommendations from the knowledgeable head sommelier, of course.
Midori
As Portugal’s first Michelin-starred Japanese restaurant, Midori delivers an exceptional dining experience. The name, which means “green” in Japanese and happens to be the name of the original owner’s daughter, is fitting given the lush surroundings of the resort. The intimate setting, accommodating just 20 guests, ensures a highly personalised and intimate dining experience.
The restaurant’s design elements, from murals depicting the arrival of Portuguese sailors in Japan to wave-like wall panelling, enhance the cultural fusion embodied in the menu.
No fairer way to spend a few days
Each morning, I was greeted by the crisp, invigorating air as I prepared for a day on the golf course. The natural beauty of the Sintra Mountains, coupled with the expertly designed courses, provided a golfing experience that was undeniably satisfying.
One particularly memorable moment occurred on the 10th hole of the Championship course. Standing at the highest point, I felt the sharp, cold winds that contrasted starkly with the warmth at the first tee. This hole, with its panoramic views and demanding layout, encapsulated the essence of Penha Longa—stunningly beautiful, historically rich, and incredibly dynamising.
In the evenings, after a day of navigating fairways and greens, I indulged in the resort’s culinary offerings. The variety and quality of the food were impressive, each meal a celebration of flavours and cultural influences. The Michelin-starred experiences at Midori and the innovative dishes at Arola were highlights, but even the more casual dining options provided a high standard of cuisine.
The blend of history, luxury, and natural beauty at Penha Longa creates an experience that is truly unique. Whether you are a passionate golfer, a history enthusiast, or simply someone looking to escape the hustle and bustle of everyday life, this resort offers something for everyone.
Penha Longa Resort is a destination that transcends the typical golf resort experience. It is a place where history and modernity coexist harmoniously, where nature and luxury are seamlessly integrated. It is a sanctuary that offers both challenge and relaxation, making it a must-visit for anyone seeking an exceptional escape.