Embarking on the inaugural ski trip of the season is a journey I relish every year, and my repatriation to the mountains for each new alpine season is an assault on the senses, both physically and mentally. This season I sought a destination that would combine alpine charm with my usual hunt for contemporary sophistication: The Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz in South Tyrol’s Puster Valley, nestled at the foot of Kronplatz mountain in the Dolomites UNESCO World Heritage area. A very strong choice indeed.
Departing from Gatwick South terminal on a crisp December morning usually signals nothing more than a routine business trip for me. Yet SkyAlps swiftly set an unexpected tone. If you arrive at just the right time, for any flight, you’ll find a check-in desk entirely devoid of anyone but airline staff. When you have a fridge-sized Rimowa and a pair of Zai skis in tow, it’s even more important that you secure a swift luggage drop. Indeed, I don’t recall the last time I had an airport check-in transpire as smoothly. Once comfortably seated aboard the De Havilland Dash 8 and sipping a crisp South Tyrolean Pinot Grigio, I appreciated how effortlessly civilized short-haul travel could be. Did I mention that SkyAlps serves their wine flight in proper glassware? Rather enlightened, I thought.
Having established Bolzano (Bozen) Airport as its hub, SkyAlps was founded in 2020. They now operate a fleet of comfortable De Havilland Dash 8-400 turboprops, connecting South Tyrol to major European cities. For travellers from the UK and beyond, this has been a game-changer in accessing Kronplatz. In late 2023, SkyAlps launched direct flights from London Gatwick to Bolzano twice weekly during the winter season. Now running thrice-weekly due to demand, SkyAlps provides both the perfect prologue and epilogue to a Kronplatz vacation.
Arriving in Bolzano, the gateway to the Dolomites, offered a low-stress entry into a region renowned among seasoned travellers for alpine authenticity and contemporary finesse. A brief but scenic 60-minute drive soon revealed base camp for the week, the Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz. It’s a property discreetly sophisticated in its architectural narrative—courtesy of acclaimed designer Matteo Thun.
Thun created four distinct interconnected buildings that echo the four seasons of South Tyrol. The result is a contemporary yet organic aesthetic. blending modern style with alpine charm and making fine use of natural materials and light-flooded spaces to bring the mountains inside. A soaring lobby features a beautiful tree adorned with autumn leaves rising to a glass dome, while deep blue and rust furnishings encircle the On The Rocks Bar, forming a convivial heart of the hotel. A member of The Leading Hotels of the World, the property has opened Falkensteiner’s brand to new markets in the US, UK, Middle East, and Asia.
Guests find 97 spacious rooms and suites thoughtfully appointed with alpine touches – some suites even include private saunas, fitness gear like yoga mats and wall bars, and expansive terraces with 180° mountain panoramas. Every detail, from seasonal colour schemes (spring greens, winter blues) to unique art installations (such as miniature skier dioramas in the corridors), reinforces the hotel’s sense of place and active spirit. Together, these elements establish Falkensteiner Kronplatz as a “quiet luxury” haven for design aficionados and adventure seekers alike.
Each room and suite reflects a cultivated balance of minimalist Scandinavian design and thoughtfully executed luxury. My suite presented expansive windows framing the Dolomite panorama, subtly complemented by a spacious dressing area, wellness-focused amenities, and tasteful exercise equipment by VLUV.
“What about the skiing?” I hear you cry. The property sits steps from the main cable car station and even provides a shuttle, though many find the six-minute walk to the lifts easy enough. The hotel’s prime location makes it a ski-in/ski-out gateway to one of South Tyrol’s best ski areas. Kronplatz (Plan de Corones) offers 119–121 km of groomed slopes serviced by over 30 modern lifts. The mountain’s 2,275 m summit plateau anchors the Dolomiti Superski circuit, meaning skiers of all levels have access to a vast network of runs – from gentle beginner zones at both base and summit to sweeping intermediate cruisers and famous black-diamond challenges like the “Sylvester” and “Herrnegg” trails.
Lunch at AlpiNN, perched at the summit, was more than a culinary pause. Led by Chef Fabio Curreli, the restaurant embraces Norbert Niederkofler’s respected “Cook the Mountain” philosophy, emphasizing regional biodiversity. Curreli’s dishes—such as tender flank steak and spelt pasta accented with freshwater caviar—exhibit confident creativity and a sincere dedication to local produce. The minimalist glass structure, surrounded by the rugged Dolomite landscape, has a view that (with justified hyperbole) will make you believe in God.
Post-lunch, a brief visit to LUMEN, the Museum of Mountain Photography adjacent to AlpiNN, was unexpectedly captivating. To be perfectly honest, it is one of the reasons I plan to return in summer. LUMEN Museum of Mountain Photography offers an immersive exploration into the cultural and artistic essence of alpine life. Curated with careful attention, the museum showcases an extensive collection of photographic works from pioneers and contemporary artists alike, providing insights into humanity’s enduring relationship with mountain landscapes. Innovative exhibits such as the ‘Shutter’ installation—a vast aperture opening dramatically to reveal the Dolomites in an ever-changing frame—bring the scenery vividly into focus.
Meanwhile, interactive spaces like the Room of Mirrors and the adrenaline-fuelled Wall of Fame, featuring iconic alpine climbers, invite discerning visitors to delve deeper into the region’s compelling narratives of exploration and alpine adventure. Complemented by the architectural elegance of its minimalist glass structure designed by renowned architect Gerhard Mahlknecht, LUMEN is an exemplary celebration of the alpine aesthetic, both visually arresting and culturally enriching for those of you willing to unclip and take the time to genuinely appreciate it. Be sure to see the room-sized camera obscura and wait for that all-important golden hour.
Later that evening, as the sun had set and the last lift had been caught in earnest, we arrived at 7Summit Restaurant, the hotel’s signature dining venue and one positioned as a mountain gastronomy journey across Europe’s highest peaks. Led by Executive Chef Federico Carsili, a Naples-born chef with a slow-food philosophy, the kitchen team delivers a creative fusion dubbed “7Summit Slow Food”. This concept blends innovative South Tyrolean cuisine with flavors from the regions around seven iconic summits – think Alpine farm-to-table ingredients enlivened with spices and recipes spanning from the Pyrenees to the Caucasus. Chef Federico was also good enough to share his rather lovely Limoncello recipe with me. Available now, provided I am in receipt of a bottle from your first batch.
The atmosphere is at once cosy and cosmopolitan, enhanced by an open kitchen and bakery where diners can watch the culinary craftsmanship in action.
On select nights, 7Summit hosts guest chefs and special events that bring Michelin-level creativity to Kronplatz. The hotel inaugurated its concept by inviting the team from Vienna’s acclaimed Mochi restaurant to present a Japanese-Alpine fusion menu and has held “four-hands” dinners featuring chefs like Theodor Falser (a Michelin-starred chef known for local terroir cuisine) cooking alongside Chef Carsili. The Active Mountain Breakfast buffet each morning is not to be missed. Also, if you need that triple espresso in the morning, ask Giuseppe.
Between meals, the hotel’s On The Rocks Bar is a destination in itself, serving creative cocktails (the smoked alpine Negroni was a favourite) and local wines by the fireplace or on the terrace with mountain vistas. Come afternoon, a traditional “Jause” (South Tyrolean snack) of charcuterie, breads, and treats is laid out for skiers returning from the slopes, exemplifying the Falkensteiner brand of hospitality. Overall, dining at Falkensteiner Kronplatz is an immersive exploration of Alpine culture. A series of “culinary summit storms” as the hotel aptly calls them – leaving guests both sated and impressed.
So yes, of course there is fine dining. And yes, there are mountains to traverse. However, there is also a consideration to be had for wellness, and thankfully so – all too often I return from a ski trip totally floored by the overindulgence. Spanning a generous 1,400 square meters across five levels, you’ll find the Acquapura Summit Spa. This adult-only sanctuary was designed to rejuvenate weary adventurers using the natural elements of the Dolomites. In fact, the spa’s concept, nicknamed the “Mountain SPA,” draws inspiration from “the four mountain elements – rock, spring water, mountain sun and mountain air” to create bespoke treatments that recharge body and soul. Guests ascend to relaxation quite literally: one unique feature is a 12-meter indoor climbing wall that actually connects the spa’s floors, so you can climb your way up to the treatment area if you wish… although I don’t imagine this would be appreciated.
Each level of the spa offers a new way to unwind. On the ground floor, you’ll find a state-of-the-art fitness center, dedicated yoga and exercise studios, and multiple tranquil relaxation lounges. Eight treatment rooms await for massages and Alpine-inspired rituals, many using local products – the spa menu includes mountain herb oil massages, South Tyrolean hay baths, and skincare by regional brand Team Dr. Joseph, all tailored to individual needs. One floor up, an expansive 25-meter outdoor sports pool is open to swimmers year-round. Thanks to the pool’s thermal heating, guests can glide through steaming water while surrounded by snow in winter. Above that, the wellness ascent continues to panoramic heat experiences: a summit hammam steam bath, a bio-sauna, and a 30m² Finnish panoramic sauna with floor-to-ceiling windows.
Crowning the spa is the rooftop Sky Pool, an infinity-edge pool that offers unobstructed views of the Kronplatz slopes and rugged Dolomites skyline. Equally notable is the spa’s atmosphere of privacy and serenity. There is also a Private Spa Suite available, where couples or friends can have side-by-side treatments and a secluded sauna/hot tub session. Throughout Acquapura Summit Spa, the design emphasizes natural textures, soft lighting, and the soothing sound of water – true to the name “Acquapura” meaning pure water, fountains and water features are integrated to calm the senses. The spa team practices a personalized approach: therapists are “spa guides” who consult with each guest, aligning treatments with whether one seeks to “energize, harmonize, release tension, or find clarity”. This philosophy, outlined in the spa’s brochure, reflects the goal of achieving a “flow state” – an inner equilibrium where the mind and body rejuvenate. I shan’t regale you with my conversation with Doris, my spa guide. But suffice to say, she was not impressed with the level of stress in my shoulders.
Depending on the time of year you visit, you too might have an unplanned encounter with locals dressed as Krampus. Think Wes Anderson meets Hell Raiser. This spontaneous folklore ritual underscored the genuine character of the destination and provided me with no end of entertainment as the evening continued.
A preview of Falkensteiner Hotel Bozen, at the WaltherPark, opening in the summer 2025, offered insight into the brand’s urban ambitions. This new property, currently under construction in Bolzano’s city centre, will complement Hotel Kronplatz by offering an urban counterpoint to the mountain resort. Where Kronplatz immerses guests in alpine sports and scenery, the Bozen hotel will immerse them in cosmopolitan style and local culture at the “gateway to the Dolomites.” The design pedigree is impressive: architecture by David Chipperfield Architects and interiors by London-based Muza Lab signal a modern, sophisticated aesthetic with large glass facades overlooking the surrounding mountains. Inside, there will be 113 luxury rooms and suites and an Acquapura Spa featuring a panoramic rooftop pool and wellness area, bringing the brand’s signature spa experience to the city. Notably, the dining scene will build on the 7Summit concept of innovation – the Bozen Hotel is introducing Mochi Sushi.Grill.Rooftop, a partnership with the team behind Vienna’s trendy Mochi restaurant, which first collaborated at Kronplatz.
The Falkensteiner Hotel Bozen at the WaltherPark will be part of the group’s Premium Collection. The two properties are different in setting – one mountainside, one city-centre – but will share a commitment to immersive luxury and personalized service. In fact, visitors to South Tyrol could craft a dual-center vacation, enjoying the cultural sights and shopping of Bolzano (a historic city known for its wine taverns, museums, and the famous Ötzi the Iceman exhibit) before or after retreating to the Kronplatz slopes.
As I took off on my return flight with SkyAlps, savouring a glass of South Tyrolean Chardonnay at 30,000 feet, I reflected on a sojourn that had for once provided as much relaxation as adrenalin. The Falkensteiner Hotel Kronplatz and its environs offer an enclave where discerning travellers can immerse themselves in an environment that values authenticity, quality, and understated elegance.
In an era where luxury is often equated with excess, the trip reaffirmed for me that true sophistication lies in thoughtful details, genuine hospitality and a profound connection to place.
