Egypt is one of the four oldest civilizations, an ancient land steeped in Bedouin traditions. In the South East Sinai lies Dahab – not merely a town, but a bohemian arcadia and a powerful fusion of culture and progression, where the past and future coexist harmoniously.
The long, winding road out of Sharm El Sheikh carries you into the heart of something more raw. Engulfed by towering, shadowy mountains for 90 kilometers, the road feels like journeying into One Thousand and One Nights folklore. It feels dramatic to arrive in the dark, like the start of a wild adventure; the anticipation lingers knowing that come the morning when the sun rises, so does a new world.
The Safir Dahab Resort was the first hotel stop, nestled on a natural lagoon just a five-minute drive from Dahab’s city center. Waking up to the view was spectacular; rugged mountains encircle the crystal-clear waters while palms and vibrant hibiscus layer the gardens in colour.
Out on the lagoon, the steady winds make this a paradise for wind and kite surfers. Onshore, the mountains embrace the right side of the bay, creating a sheltered haven for sun worshippers.
The Safir’s understated elegance and thoughtful amenities make it an ideal getaway for couples and families alike. It has it all: activities, spas and a variety of excursions offering no shortage of adventure or relaxation. The spa treatment I indulged in included a sauna, salt and coffee scrubs, a Turkish bath and a deep tissue massage – I floated out of my two-hour appointment.
When it comes to dining, the hotel offers a feast of flavours, blending traditional Egyptian cuisine with beloved Western classics. Masoor dal, labneh, falafel and eggs make for a savoury feast. The homemade apricot, date, and strawberry jams and the sesame and pistachio honeys are also not to be missed, not least when enjoyed with the freshly-baked breads.
I reached out to Hamedusha, a local fixer who had arranged my transfers. He took me to the infamous Blue Hole, nestled in the Southeast Sinai National Park, just 20 minutes outside the city along the coastal route to Abu Galum. Snorkelling or diving at this world-renowned site is unmissable.
As you enter the water, you immediately drop through a shallow canyon and follow the reef on the right into the Blue Hole. The waves carry you along on top of the underwater world, corals bursting with the sharpest colours on the right and a deep, hypnotic blue drop to the left. Plunging to a depth of 130 meters, the Blue Hole is a magnet for technical and free-divers alike. Whether you’re exploring its depths or simply skimming the surface, it’s a special site with so much to offer.
Back to Dahab city which hums with life – goats, cats, dogs, cars and scooters weave through the streets as people go about their day. But just a five-minute walk down to the Eel Garden area, north of Lighthouse, lies the tranquil oasis of Nour Boutique Hotel. Upon entering Nour, any lingering hustle dissolves, replaced by an immediate shift in energy. The air carries delicate wafts of doTerra essential oils, wrapping you in a sense of calm as your eyes are instantly drawn to the stunning decor.
Everywhere you look, there’s something to marvel at. The interior is artistry. A blend of color, style and finesse comes to life through intricate patterns, artwork, tiles and hand-painted furniture. It’s endlessly chic even down to the thick, elegantly draped curtains. The beauty of Nour lies in its authenticity – 90% of the decor is unmistakably Egyptian. Every detail sings with pride in its heritage, creating a space that feels both rich in history and uniquely its own. The most striking sight is the hand-painted ceiling artwork by Mido.
The Rub El Hizb, (Islamic star) engulfs you as you enter, intricately decorated with the Arabic alphabet. This motif flows throughout the hotel, adorning the furniture with hand-painted lettering, showing respect for their culture in every room.
Ema, the hotel owner, warmly welcomed me and introduced Nada, one of the Egyptian Front of House staff. Nada’s kind offer of Turkish coffee and dates set the tone for my stay.
Every room at Nour is beautiful and unique. Among the 16 suites, some boast horizon-stretching balconies while others have poolside access. However, all have independently commissioned artwork. Ema’s touch is evident in every detail, bold blues, fuchsia pinks, and hand-painted furniture give the hotel a playful yet elegant Matisse-like charm.
The highlight of my room was the terrace, where I watched the full moon rise over the Gulf of Aqaba, behind Saudi Arabia’s Hijaz mountains. As night fell, ochre and rose hues faded, and the moon’s alignment perfectly echoed the hotel’s symmetry. Proof that its design was guided by the sun and moon.
Once settled, the lovely Shams, whose name means “sun” in Arabic, guided me down to the private beach, where we watched the full moon rise over the horizon. Arriving on the night of a full moon felt like more than mere coincidence – after all, Nour itself means “light.”
After the remedial display from the moon, I couldn’t wait to hear more from Ema the next morning. We put the world to rights over coffee in the awe-inspiring lounge area, and she told me about her rich history of living and working in the travel industry in Dahab. As a Scottish woman, married to an Egyptian both having worked in travel, wellbeing, and hospitality for over 30 years, she claimed:
“Dahab attracts a certain type of people and the soul of it is exactly as it was in 1992, local, sustainable, real, and raw.”
You can tell people who visit Nour Boutique Hotel are looking for something extraordinary, whether that be with the staff, the decor, the luxury, the location or the wide range of wellbeing offers. The hotel guests reflect that broad-reaching offering; it’s inherently multicultural with Egyptian, Gulf and international guests.
Ema explained that since the 2011 revolution, political and regional developments have significantly impacted Egypt’s economy, with the prolonged transition slowing growth. In response, the Ministry of Tourism launched a domestic travel subsidy program (2013–2016), encouraging Egyptians to explore their own country. This initiative not only reduced reliance on international tourism but also made travel more accessible for those who previously couldn’t afford it.
Nour is in its soft opening phase, with an exciting new restaurant set to launch this spring. As a well-being hotel first, hospitality naturally follows, shaping an ever-evolving guest experience. The hotel itself offers a multitude of classes; massage, meditation, yoga and developing its wider retreat offer, too.
This hotel is so uniquely crafted; no two rooms are the same and the intent is for the hotel to continuously evolve. “I won’t say it’s ever finished—it’s a work of art,” Ema shares, and indeed, a work of art it is.The lobby and rooms showcase stunning commissioned pieces by Latvian artist Amalija Andersone, featuring Middle Eastern women, vibrant colours and wildlife, adding to the hotel’s style. “What is required will always appear.” This philosophy adds to the hotel’s mystery, reflecting the owner’s passion for crafting a feeling rather than just a space. It strikes me that when I gladly return, there may be new excursions, wellbeing pursuits, artwork or unexpected touches. This boutique hotel can never be replicated – nor will it ever truly be complete.
The true rapture of this place lies in its deep connection to the earth and its elements – a harmony that resonates in every detail. Upon my arrival, a taxi driver taught me the Arabic word for
beauty, gamil, and I can’t think of a more fitting description. This hotel doesn’t just reflect gamil – it embodies it in every sense. An absolute must-stay in Dahab for those seeking both opulence and authenticity.
Knowing I had to experience the Wadi Gnai – the vast mountainous landscape surrounding Dahab – I was introduced to Malakot, meaning Kingdom of God. There was something profoundly spiritual about turning off the tarmac road, onto the sand, suddenly weaving through the very mountains I had been gazing at for the past five days. As the sun began to set, the granite and sandstone shifted in colour, glowing amber and rose. Our destination was a Bedouin camp for a full moon ceremony, an experience unlike any other.
It began with a communal organic Temazcal sauna, where heated granite from the surrounding mountains served as the sauna rocks.
After the intense heat, we cooled off in a natural oasis plunge pool, gazing at the starry sky. The evening continued with a deep sound healing session under the rising moon, where voices, instruments, and resonance filled the air. Culminating in storytelling around a flickering fire. For me, the sound healing under the moonlight stirred thoughts of my ancestral lineage and I felt an undeniable connection to the ancient energy of this place.
The saunas are built directly into the land and you can trace the origin of this style to the indigenous people of Mesoamerica. Deefalla Sollyman, the Bedouin owner of Malakot, guided me through the site. Taking over from his father, his family has cared for this land for over 30 years. Cultivating date palms in the oasis and offering authentic mountain experiences for those seeking a deeper connection to the Wadi.
Deefalla explained that the Mzeina Bedouin tribe – the largest Bedouin group in South Sinai – has lived and operated in this Wadi for over 300 years. Visiting Malakot is a profound encounter with oneself and the land, it leaves you enriched and questioning.
On a quest to deepen my connections to the natural world, having heard so much about the marvels of the Red Sea, I was excited to descend from the mountains and dive into the ocean. Thanks to PADI
(Professional Association of Diving Instructors), I was connected with SlyDive, a Green Fins-accredited dive center in Dahab. Co-owned by Karim, the Training Director who is also a captain/actor and UNFPA ambassador alongside other partners who have equally as impressive CVs – a dive instructor, a geologist and another captain – this centre exudes expertise.
Dive centres can feel intimidating as a solo female traveler but at SlyDive, I was met with warmth, fun, and engaging conversation. My 1:1 instructor, Diaa, had an impressive background in pharmacology and human psychology, which he used to understand my reactions deep underwater. I instantly felt at ease as we went through the reactivate PADI programme for my advanced status, set up the kit, and went through the diligent dive briefing. 
Thorough, calm and intellectual, he made the experience seamless.
Our first dive was off the Lighthouse area, a stretch that feels like an Arabian Sorrento, with beach cafés lining the rocky coast. Entering the water, at three meters I was immediately engulfed by a shoal of a thousand tiny fish, unexpected in the shallows. As we swam deeper we passed coral farms and an underwater museum of Pharaoh statues featuring Horus and Bes (the sky and protector gods, respectively), descending to 27m, where an elephant sculpture lay. These recycled-material statu
es serve to pay homage to ancient civilisations whilst diverting divers from fragile coral reefs, providing new habitatsfor marine life and allowing areas like the popular Blue Hole to regenerate. At Mashraba, another underwater museum awaited, surrounded by pufferfish, angelfish, and vibrant anemones.
The most exhilarating dive was The Canyon, located in the national park. Descending along the reef, I found myself hovering over what seemed like a tiny cave. As I carefully deflated, moving upright into the narrow space, the descent felt both thrilling and trepidatious. At 30m, I swam through the underwater canyon, with Diaa’s torchlight illuminating hidden shoals. Looking up at the narrow opening we had just passed through, it felt impossible that we had made it down with our gear – a testament to skill and control.
Currently, 70% of dive sites are within Marine Protected Areas, yet only 15% are fully protected. SlyDive champions respectful dive tourism, using adventure as a tool for ocean
conservation. They even host Ocean Dive Cleanups, offering free dives for volunteers clearing plastic and debris. Their efforts extend beyond divers as they focus on including locals too. Calling on the Bedouin to participate, ensuring even non-swimmers can join through beach cleanups, showing again how Dahab’s communities come together to protect their precious land.
With Sinai’s strict environmental regulations, restoration projects can be challenging. Yet, SlyDive is pushing boundaries, proving that progressive conservation and world-class diving can go hand in hand.
After all the activities, you quickly work up an appetite. The local fare is fresh, flavorful, and deeply satisfying, with something for every craving. For a beachside Egyptian breakfast, Coral Coast is a must. Their spread is vibrant and unctuous; falafel, roasted vegetables, Aish Baladi (local flatbread), mutabal (a smoky aubergine dip), and eggs cooked to your liking. It’s the perfect fuel for a day of Dahab adventures.
For seafood, I visited Darwish Fish Restaurant and Shark Restaurant. Darwish had a more authentic, local feel, with a simple but satisfying process – choose your freshly caught fish (delivered just hours before), have it weighed and enjoy it lightly fried, served with rice and tahini. Shark catered more to tourists but offered excellent service and a relaxed dining experience. Garlic butterfly prawns, perfectly grilled dorada and tender squid, all served with flatbreads, rice and an array of Middle Eastern dips. Absolutely delicious.
The restaurant that truly stood out for me was Seaduction, a Lebanese gem in Assalah. I sampled the chicken makloubeh – a fragrant spiced rice dish; the fattet shrimp was an unexpected yet addictive combination of shrimp, yogurt, chickpeas, nuts and fried pita. The sujuk is a Lebanese spiced beef sausage glazed in molasses. These dishes felt deeply traditional yet excitingly unfamiliar, offering bold new flavours and textures that satisfied every sense.
February seems like the perfect time to travel to Dahab, a distinct lack of crowds and a perfect temperature, but it’s not for the faint hearted, the further you venture away from the shelter of the mountains, the breeze gets stronger. Perhaps it’s nature’s way of keeping one alert.
Dahab means “gold” in Arabic, and I’ve found myself drawn to the Middle Eastern proverb:
“If silver is speaking, then gold is listening.”
The true wealth of Dahab isn’t in tangible gold, but in the quiet wisdom the place imparts – if you take the time to listen you are compelled to hear its messages: of community, harmony with nature, multiculturalism, classlessness, and beauty. There is much to learn, whether from the splendor of its antiquity or the progressiveness of its people. Gold, Mother of the World – or in Arabic, Dahab, Om El Donya feels like the perfect name forthis place, where the land, sea, and culture come together in a harmony as rich and timeless as gold itself.
