The word ‘classic’ is thrown around a lot, not least within the realm of menswear. Dunhill, with its commitment to excellence and an apologetically English sense of finesse, has consistently celebrated the timeless, the distinctive and the inherent elegance in the understated. Classic, rather than being a throwaway adjective or an excuse to forever look to the past, weaves its way through the core of Dunhill’s DNA.
With their forthcoming Autumn/Winter 2023 collection, Dunhill isn’t attempting to reinvent the wheel or reimagine high-end menswear anew. It is, rather, underscoring its own essence of classicism; embodying the famed house values through refining iconic looks, defining British luxury, and taking craftsmanship and expertise to its contemporary conclusion.
This emphatic revisitation of core values – wherein innovation meets functionality, and the finest British fabrics meet the most meticulous British artisans – marks the 130th anniversary of the fashion house’s foundation in peerless style. To look over the collection is to know this intuitively: achingly sharp autumn suits sit side by side with cashmere double-breasted blazers, herringbone overcoats and outerwear crafted from the unmistakable Prince of Wales check, and harringtons, parkas, duffle coats and leathers. It is, as it ever was, an exercise in the uppermost echelons of British class, tailored to represent the very best aspects of 21st century masculinity.
To call the Dunhill AW2023 collection classic is not to say it mistakes classicism with sedation, however. Not only is there something thrilling in absolutely owning those brand values (and showcasing them with a confidence consistent with their uncompromising quality), there’s long been a somewhat bohemian-by-way-of-Sloane undercurrent to Dunhill that shines through beautifully. An understated eccentricity, without a doubt – but all the more authentically English for being as such.
Indeed, in their ever-present hybrid chelsea boot, double-face car coat in luscious chestnut brown, high neck jumpers and wool-silk blends, there’s a rock ‘n’ roll sensibility at play – an aesthetic that reminds us The Rolling Stones are as much an aspect of our island’s identity as tweed, aran wool and brogues, and far from the polar opposites the uninformed might suppose.
In paying homage to their heritage while also embracing the here and now of urbane, sophisticated menswear, Dunhill has crafted a collection befitting this anniversary year. Crafted to last, each item combines the durable with the desirable, while successfully reflecting the seasonal (in the literal sense) nature of the lines being launched.
Naturally, a suit by Dunhill represents its own zenith in versatility; it’s an item crafted to last a lifetime, and epitomises the timeless aspect of the house’s lofty tailoring chops. The AW2023 Collection presents a new Belgravia jacket and trouser, serving a valuable reminder as to why British wool remains a treasured national resource – and one which rightly remains the envy of the fashion world. It’s a theme that runs not just through the collection, but through a brand heritage that stretches back over a century: world-class clothing begins with world-class raw materials, and the devil remains forever in the detail.
The tides of fashion are forever turning, but true style remains steadfast. Dunhill succeeds in bringing purpose and relevance to style, providing unmissable pieces for city, country and beyond. Classic, indeed.