The style editor looked at me with wide-eyed panic. “There is only a month left of the SS20 season”. It was a fair point. “You’re basing that on the assumption that the readership is going to stay in their hemisphere, which we know they aren’t, Bobby,’’ I replied. “But it’s incredibly tailored and it’s evening wear.” “Which will be relevant in Cap Ferrat, Nantucket and Tokyo, no matter what time of year it is, Bobby’’.
Bobby had already covered swimwear and linen shirts earlier in the calendar, so I thought it was about time we preempted the AW push for tailored sophistication. Better to be overdressed than underdressed. And the Brioni design director, Norbert Stumpfl, agreed.
Having secured Brad Pitt as an ambassador in late 2019, Brioni created a tuxedo for him for the 2019 Cannes Film Festival.
“It’s about wearing super-luxurious garments, but not caring too much about how they’re put on,” said Stumpfl. “A collar can stick out, the buttons on a jacket sleeve are ‘carelessly’ unbuttoned, the tie underpart is slightly showing. He wears the clothes in the right way. The clothes don’t wear him.”