I fear that my recent trip to Thailand is going to set a precedent for all years that
follow. By that I mean, I’m going back. Now, many of you may know the backstory re
Thailand travels, but, as a brief synopsis. I had originally been whilst in my twenties,
way back when in 2006. At that time, Bangkok was still a heady, busy, hedonistic
metropolis, but by the standards of 2025, much, MUCH smaller and shorter. The
coastal regions and islands had barely seen a hotel brand, let alone a chain, and of
course, before the horrendous tsunami of 2011 that laid waste to much of a coastline
still recovering from the disaster of 2004. After a mere seventeen years I had
returned on a wonderful press trip encompassing Bangkok, Krabi and Phuket. I so
much enjoyed that 2023 trip that I had resolved on my return, to, well, return, and
that finds me here at the back end of a 2025 vaguely well spent, I set off for a
sequel.
Bangkok is a humid, heavy, sprawling city. Vast, layered and a thrum that seems to
resonate at every moment. One feels it in the traffic, on the Skytrain, on a long boat
along the river. There is undoubted energy, and nowadays that thrum is being emitted
from ever more modern and advanced structures. This is a tall city with the skyline
dominated by high-rise hotels and offices for multinationals. At the same time, it’s a
city that is all things and everything, everywhere. One can step out of a £1000 a
night hotel and still grab a 10p skewer on the corner. Michelin mixed with street cart.
Mercedes with Tuktuk. Hermès and 7-Eleven. The duality of the city is perhaps its
greatest charm, and I, for one, am all for it.
I start this trip at the Oriental Residence in Lumphini, a literal stone’s throw from the
park. I mean, I have a good arm, but the analogy carries. Anyway, this wonderfully
tall edifice is located on the amusingly named Wireless Road and houses all -suites
and residences across its 32 floors. One-, two- and three-bedroom residences are
catered for, with them split across city and park views. Situated in the embassy
district, the hotel serves as a great starting point for anywhere across the city. The
Grab application in Thailand means that food and taxis aren’t an issue in that there is
access from wherever, and in a city that doesn’t seem to sleep, whenever. The
property was recently bestowed with the One MICHELIN Key Award. A
member of the Small Luxury Hotels of the World community. There’s nothing easier
than independent grading to give one a sense of calm about a property. The suites
are well thought-out and incredibly spacious for Bangkok. We stayed. Oh, yes, my
wife was my travel partner on this escape, perhaps adding to my affinity with the
country. SO, we stayed in a one-bedroom corner suite prestige. I say this without
meaning to be humorous and/or glib. This was larger than many London one-
bedroom apartments, and I’m not talking about London’s sudden propensity for
‘Manhattans’. At 70 square metres, this is a genuinely large footprint for a one-
bedroom suite. Spending an extended period as so many people do, be that for
business or pleasure, a space of this size means one can relax into it somewhat,
without the burden of ever-present bags, or the inability to shut off from other areas.
There is an incredibly well-stocked kitchen, which, having viewed many London
properties, I can say, is larger than 67% of London Kitchens. And better stocked than
maybe 84%. All amenities for a stay of any length are considered. Cutlery, crockery,
utensils, and cooking equipment. Hell, they even remembered to leave some
washing powder for the in-room washer/dryer. Would it be weird for me to admit that
was a highlight? The suites are all designed by architect Barbara Barry, and there is
a focus on calmness with light hues, actually comfortable sofas rather than the
aesthetic-driven stone monoliths so often found, and a pillow-topped king-sized
mattress that probably should be paired with a foghorn for an alarm, ‘cis that’s the
only way you’re getting out of that downy comfort. The bathroom is likewise a palatial
and welcoming space with a rainfall shower, a huge tub, dual vanities, a Dyson
hairdryer, much to the delight of my wife and towels so towely it made me question
what I have been drying myself with for 44 years.
The hotel houses three spaces for food and beverages, the Oriental Bar, the
Playdeck, alongside the pool on the fourth floor and Café Claire on the ground floor,
where a quite spectacular breakfast is served daily. Personally, it takes a strong
breakfast to dissuade me from the myriad delights that sit outside of a property’s
walls, and the Oriental Residence did not disappoint in that regard. A mixture of
pastries, breads, jams and jellies is present, and the a la carte menu offers a wide
array of offerings, both international and Thai. A theme that is repeated for both
lunch and dinner service. The staff, as attentive as ever in Thailand, will, of course,
deviate from the menu if, like me, one’s constitution is never rock solid first thing in
the morning. The Café also offers an afternoon tea experience, which was one thing
I was happy to indulge in. Bite-sized is always a fun size for eating. It’s in the name
after all. The tea pairs a list of teas served either hot or iced with a world tour of small
treats showcasing one of each country’s typical flavours. A banh mi-inspired
sandwich from Vietnam, a shrimp tartlet inspired by Sichuan cuisine. Sweet offerings
included a Tiramisu from, yes, Italy and Torrias, a Spanish-inspired fried bread with
honey, sugar and cinnamon. Quite frankly, if they had offered that full-sized at
breakfast? I don’t think my mornings would have been quite so pedestrian.
As mentioned, next to the Playdeck, the fourth floor bar, houses the pool, a business
centre and a fitness centre, if you’re into that sort of thing. The Playdeck serves
simple food, more midday snack fare such as burgers and Pad Thai. Oh, and a
fiercely cold Singha. Not much is better in the sultry heat of Bangkok. The pool is
lovely, nestled in the corner of the building on only the fourth floor, which means that it has
a more intimate, vista-like feel to it, and it doesn’t fare any worse for it. Not
especially deep, but with cabanas circling it, and the aforementioned bar a mere
hand signal away, there is much to enjoy. The overall aesthetic of the property, I
would classify as calm. The communal areas, such as the entrance lobby itself, are
large and airy, with muted neutral tones and an oriental opulence that befits the
name. For the next trip to this city of such intrigue and new imagination, the Oriental
Residence will certainly be revisited, not least for that Torrias.
