’30s Romanticism: Pal Zileri

Suave, sophisticated, wealthy and authoritative: the characteristics of an Alpha male that men strive for and women desire. Such adjectives have been metaphorically sewn into the fabric of Italian fashion house Pal Zileri’s Autumn/Winter 2013-2014 collection. Creative director Yvan Benbanaste’s muse was the character Major Jim Whittaker, an upper middle class male from British romantic comedy Easy Virtue, portrayed by actor Colin Firth. The aura of the 1930s Englishman surrounds this collection with the abundance of tailor fitted, exquisite coats. Portuguese model Ricardo Guedes is the perfect embodiment of the chic era, photographed by Alistair Taylor-Young enjoying the mountainous setting. I cannot help but think of classic villas and 19th century Romanticism influences within an idyllic English countryside, evoking subtle undertones of liberation and expression. Words – Arnelle Paterson

Pal Zileri’s collaboration with famous Italian woollen mill Fratelli Tallia di Delfino has proven to be a synergistic success, with the production of exclusive suits and blazers of supreme quality. The ‘Super 130’ yarn provides comfortable movement with superb waterproof, crease-resistance and anti-bacterial properties. The colour scheme of anthracite and lighter greys, deep red, lilac, shades of brown and cream places this Italian line at the forefront of contemporary fashion trends catered to the ultra-masculine man.

Gruppo Forall has stayed true to his house style with short jackets (although 2cm longer than his LAB Autumn/Winter range, created with younger clientele in mind) designed with rich fabrics of heavy merino wool, fine silk, cashmere and hand woven tweed. The wider, higher lapels with 7mm stitching featured on selected jackets offers versatility, whilst flattering all body types, it can be worn for business, as a wardrobe staple or a dinner date. A deep v-neckline creates the illusion of height and slimmer frame.

Alternatively, the pointed lapel on the double-breasted suit jackets are essential staple items for drawing attention at weddings, black tie events and formal dinners. As the top of the lapels make a sharp point across the shoulder, the eyes of admirers are drawn primarily to this region emphasising broad shoulders. An added value within the jackets are displayed within the rich lining and “silk touch” labelling, the tartan pattern of one piece suggests that Forall has been influenced by the return of 90s fashion.  I highly recommend purchasing the velvet checked blazer; the luxurious nature of velvet instantaneously adds style to any outfit, while the print binds a show-stopping, unique quality to the apparel, setting you apart from the crowd.

I’m not a fan of polo necks, but the combination of the paisley print scarf and precious textiles yak and mohair used within the knitwear complement each other splendidly. The amalgamation of the knitwear, scarf and jacket allow absolute insulation with a classy aesthetic, while the slight hint of purple brightens up the outfit, albeit slightly.

‘Made in Biella’ truly applies to this conceptual collection with its advanced, elaborate crafting techniques. Gruppo Forall has successfully joined the likes of Armani, Prada and Dolce and Gabbana as an exquisite Italian designer with excellent workmanship and an ambassador for sublime, elegant menswear. Whether you’re a businessman who travels abroad searching for impeccable ski wear for a weekend in the Swiss Alps, or simply the epitome of the urbane male, you cannot go wrong with this collection. It is the perfect concoction of au courant with a vintage twist for the dapper, modern day man and pieces I can assure you will remain classic for a lifetime.

Arnelle Paterson

Paterson’s work has appeared on the Spear’s magazine website and she has created her own newsletter for Hounslow Homes. Her grounding is in fashion, current affairs, food, celebrity, the arts, culture and lifestyle.

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