Australia is a country laden with no shortage of cultural significance for people right across the globe, and one which continues to inspire fascination. It’s not hard to see why: there’s the iconic wildlife, the fact that we grew up with the inescapable 90’s pop culture figures of Steve Irwin, Kylie and more, and a potent cinematic presence that presents its panoramas as something at once familiar and alien, epically inviting yet almost completely unknowable.
Around the time I was graduating from secondary school (and as is traditional in the Netherlands), Australia’s pull seemed to be at its most powerful. Indeed, half my graduating class decided to head on a backpacking adventure Down Under. However, instead of opting for the more traditional beach-and-beer gap year, I embarked on the Trans-Mongolian Express, a 4,735-mile train journey from Moscow to Beijing. Despite fully standing by my decision (and at the time feeling rather smug about not going for the popular choice), the gap year kids bound for ‘Oz’ did plant a seed; one of lingering curiosity to see what Australia was truly all about. It was, it turned out, a curiosity that would only grow in the years to come.
When Journey Beyond invited me to experience The Ghan, a legendary rail expedition from Darwin to Adelaide with stops en route in Katherine, Alice Springs, and Coober Pedy, I wasn’t exactly a tough sell. In addition to travelling through the iconic Red Centre, we’d also explore some of Journey Beyond’s marine expeditions and city adventures. As one of Australia’s largest experiential tourism businesses, with a portfolio of 13 iconic brands, I knew I was about to experience the Australia highlight reel of a lifetime.
My journey began in London with a flight to Sydney via Singapore, before continuing to Darwin. The Northern Territory city of Darwin would mark the start of The Ghan – a truly legendary rail journey befitting of countless bucket lists. After concluding that epic locomotive odyssey, I’d make stops in Melbourne, Hamilton Island, the Great Barrier Reef, and then back to city life with a final night in Sydney. That’s about 23,500 miles door to door.
Though a direct flight from Singapore to Darwin would have been faster, the aerial views of the Outback were mesmerising. Miles of unspoiled, deep red earth against the bright blue Outback sky were a hypnotic preview of the adventures ahead. It was a stunning introduction to Australia’s rugged beauty, and one that more than scratched an itch that started stirring so many years ago.
After what felt like a lifetime crossing almost half the planet, the first breath of fresh air, sunshine on my skin, and non-airport ground underfoot were blissful to say the least. A brief exploration of downtown Darwin led to a delightful local treat—crispy fried alligator bites with a view of Darwin’s Waterfront. I’m unsure if Steve Irwin would have approved, but, you know, when in Rome.
Our first evening Down Under kicked off with a Darwin Harbour Cruise, I was of course eagerly anticipating a spectacular sunset. The adventure began aboard the Charles Darwin, a comfortable three-tier catamaran, where the crew welcomed us warmly. With celebratory refreshments in hand, we settled in for a memorable evening exploring the waters of the Northern Territory’s capital.
The buffet dinner was bountiful and (not surprisingly) heavy on seafood, accompanied by insightful commentary from a local guide. The combination of champagne on tap and over 30 hours of travel had made my eyelids heavy beyond belief. There was, of course, no chance I was going to give in and miss out on the signature Top End sunset. As the sun began to dip below the horizon, I stood outside on deck, fresh air on my face, in a faint attempt to scare off the zzz’s. I witnessed a sky transformed into a canvas of oranges, pinks, and purples, each hue reflecting off the calm waters below. As day turned to night the party continued, stars dotted the sky, and the city’s lights twinkled upon our return to the harbour.
I’m certainly no Francis Bourgeois, but there’s something so romantic and intriguing about crossing lands unknown in the comfort of a sleeper train. Being given the opportunity to see vast landscapes that many won’t ever get to witness, solely due to its sheer remoteness, is a rare delight. The rhythmic ‘gedunk gedunk’ of the train sliding over the rails and sleepers, for miles and miles to come was my kind of speed. My adventure aboard The Ghan would span four days and three nights, taking me from Darwin to Adelaide via Katherine, Alice Springs and Coober Pedy.
Upon arriving at the station, there she was in all her glory and frontier spirit. A striking red locomotive with the cameleer logo, hinting to the train’s trailblazing history of pioneering cameleers who found their way into the Red Centre over 150 years ago. Behind the locomotive followed miles of polished stainless-steel carriages shimmering away in the morning sun.
My Gold Twin cabin was compact and charming. The cabin-width window was the star of the show and welcomed me in with the promise of a widescreen view of the unreal terrain yet to come. A continuously changing picture frame. The bedding was a nostalgic bunk arrangement: the top bunk to be folded out in the evening hours and the lower bunk easily transformed into a comfortable sofa from where you could either disappear into the views or a book. Of course, I tried both – and I can report that the top bunk had a bit more sway to it, rocking me to sleep with the sound of the rail sleepers disappearing underneath me at a steady pace. The cabin even had its own private bathroom, where you could attempt to swing a cat. Regardless, it was much better than sharing with fellow travellers no matter how well-heeled. Despite the understandably limited space, the cabin was thoughtfully designed and offered all the comforts needed for a restful journey.
I found myself spending most of my time in the sociable and inviting lounge carriage, equipped with an array of games and books, where fellow passengers quickly became friends. Be sure to order a cocktail from Loz, the Ghan’s resident bartender. I suspect her charm alone has resulted in guests returning time and time again. Adjacent to the Lounge carriage was the classically styled Queen Adelaide Restaurant, which truly embodied the romance of rail travel. The occasional rattling of crockery, cutlery and glassware provided another audible layer to the soundtrack of the trip. The staff were fully synchronised and delivered exceptional service in a cosy atmosphere. Not to mention the chefs creating the most lovely local and seasonal dishes in the unimaginably tight galleys.
Our first off-train excursion in Katherine was the Nitmiluk Gorge Cruise, an experience that connected us with the ancient landscape. As our boat navigated the winding Katherine River, we were surrounded by towering gorge walls etched by time. The sound of cicadas echoed across the cliffs as we were enveloped by nature. Our guide shared fascinating stories about the geological history and the cultural significance of Nitmiluk to the Indigenous Jawoyn people, a moment where spirituality meets natural beauty.
Alice Springs, our second off-train experience, gave the exploration of Simpsons Gap top billing. We spent the morning seeing sites such as Anzac Hill Memorial, an Aboriginal art studio, John Flynn’s Grave and a delightful lunch at the Alice Springs Desert Park. Post-lunch we took in the Ghost Gum Walk; a gentle one-hour circular Cassia Hill Walk which offered stunning views over the MacDonnell Ranges. The day was a sensory assault and left me wondering if we’d ever make it to the Gap at all. But grand things come to those who wait. A dry riverbed with ancient Ghost Gum trees unfolded before me. Bright orangey red cliffs towering above it reaching into the crisp blue sky. Following the path into the gap between the canyon walls, I found the permanent waterhole and an overwhelming feeling of peace. The majesty, strength and utter grandeur nature can display is always worth the effort.
Later that evening and back at base, the team had set up for a bbq dinner under the stars at the historic Alice Springs Telegraph Station. Established in 1871, it marks the site of the first European settlement in Alice Springs. The station played a pivotal role in the Overland Telegraph Line between Darwin and Adelaide, connecting Australia to the British Empire’s undersea network. This revolutionised communication – what once took months by sea could now reach London in just five hours, transforming 19th-century connectivity. In this rather historic setting, we enjoyed an evening of live music, dance, stargazing, camel rides, and roasting marshmallows over open fires. The very definition of wholesome.
Our final stop was Coober Pedy, often referred to as “the opal capital of the world”. Imagine a lunar landscape dotted with mounds of earth from mining operations. It was a stark and barren environment, where temperatures rise so significantly that locals live in dugouts; homes carved into the hills to escape the extreme heat.
Before diving into Coober Pedy, we visited the Breakaways Reserve, where the colourful low hills appear to be ‘broken away’ from the higher ground, creating a surreal panorama that changes colour depending on the angle at which the sun shines. This landscape, once an inland sea, has transformed over time into a dramatic display of natural beauty.
In Coober Pedy we started off with an underground Greek-style lunch in an old mining tunnel. Very on brand. We then met our host, Outback Opal Hunter’s very own Yanni. We donned hard hats and were given pickaxes to try our luck at finding opals at Quest Mine. The blue light illuminated the opal veins in the rock, making it look so accessible. Perhaps the opal rush started to hit, as I asked Yanni if perhaps he had some explosives instead. Sadly, no ammonium nitrate was at hand. The Quest Mine experience was followed by a guided tour of The Umoona Opal Mine and Museum, which offered an insightful journey into the history of Australia’s national gemstone. We saw the underground caverns, hand-dug shafts, and tunnels showcasing the often harsh reality of opal mining.
As evening fell, we returned to the Manguri siding; a unique location on the track from where you can see the entire length of the train and guests attempting to frame it all in. Here we were treated to sundowners and canapes by the bonfire. Standing in the bright red sand, staring into the sunset being kept warm by the fire was the most wonderful touch. Several more nightcaps were had to celebrate the end of the wonderful journey through Australia’s Outback.
The Ghan isn’t just an expedition; it’s an experience that immerses you in the heart of Australia. It’s’ there in the vast red deserts, the ever-changing landscapes, and the most insane moonsets. It’s in the camaraderie among passengers, the wonderful team and great service, and the chance to disconnect from the outside world make it a unique passage.
I still have a deep sense of gratitude for this journey. The Ghan leaves you with not just memories, but a profound appreciation for the diverse beauty of Australia and the stories of its people. If you seek an adventure that combines the natural wonders of the Outback, prestige and history, The Ghan is the escape for you.
After four days of remote nature, we headed to Australia’s second most populous city: Melbourne. What to do if you have less than 24 hours to spend in a city and still want to soak it all in? Head to its highest point and drink in the views. In Melbourne, that means paying a visit to the Skydeck on the 88th floor of the Eureka Tower. This isn’t just any viewpoint—it’s the southern hemisphere’s highest observation deck at nearly 300 metres.
From this height, you have 360-degree views of Melbourne and beyond. Snap a selfie, or send a postcard (yes, it also has the highest postbox in the southern hemisphere), or just simply sit down to observe the sprawling cityscape.
For those craving more adrenalin, the Skydeck offers VR experiences that let you test your nerves on a virtual plank walk high above the city and explore 16 iconic Melbourne landmarks. VR experiences don’t really do it for me, so I stepped into The Edge instead—a glass cube that extends three metres out from the building. Standing on its transparent floor, looking down at the city far below was a captivating change of perspective. I finished my champagne and enjoyed the remaining orange hues of the sunset, before heading to Eureka 89 on the 89th floor in the restaurant’s private elevator.
Stepping into the dining room, you’re welcomed to a sultry, almost nightclub-esque, atmosphere. The black and red interior, with leather and high-gloss accents, reflects the sparkling lights of Melbourne’s skyline.
Enjoy the six or eight-course tasting menus curated by Chef Renee Martillano, who celebrates classic Australian produce with a modern aesthetic. The culinary journey began with a standout starter: spanner crab with smoked crème, wasabi, and daikon gastrique. The creamy texture, hint of spice, satisfying crunch, and balanced acidity set the bar sky-high. The trio of Yarra Valley caviar from the kitchen provided a perfect interlude. Especially the Ikura Shoyu Zuke, marinated in soy, sake, and wakame, delivered a satisfying umami punch. If I lived in New South Wales, I’d have these pearls of goodness on a weekly delivery.
After only one night in the city, and despite loving Melbourne’s energy, the concrete skyrises made me long for another escape into nature. Contrasting the red, dry, Outback dirt, we headed to the tropical Hamilton Island. Part of the Whitsundays and in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef, you’ll be surrounded by pristine white beaches, clear azure waters, vibrant coral and marine life. Perfect.
This car and carefree paradise island is known for its stunning natural beauty. The island itself also has plenty to offer, from top-notch accommodations such as qualia, to exploring the Whitsundays and Great Barrier Reef. I opted to take my golf cart to Hamilton Island Wildlife to pay a long-overdue visit to the koalas. These sleepy leaf munchers stole my heart and I have to say I got a little carried away. Even after deleting 90% of the pictures I rattled off, I still have over 50 photos of the same koala on my camera roll. I cannot bring myself to delete any of them. The modern digital scourge.
After a stay at the exceptional qualia, it was time for a more rustic experience the following morning. Bright and early we headed to the marina where we joined eager fellow travellers for a cruise to Reefworld, a pontoon set on the edge of Hardy Reef, located on the outer Barrier Reef from the Whitsunday Islands. As we cruised into the open waters of the Coral Sea we became spectators to the majesty of breaching whales. The raw power and grace with which these colossal creatures soar through the air, followed by a playful splash back into the water is a spectacle that left me feeling in awe of nature and the beauty of life.
Having docked to Reefworld we swiftly checked into Journey Beyond’s Reefsleep. This two-day, one-night experience is a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to sleep under the stars amidst nothing but the ocean. On the top deck, you’ll find 12 swag tents, which function as daybeds and accommodation by night. If you prefer not to share a shower block with strangers, opt for the Reefsuite experience: Australia’s first underwater hotel room with glass-walled en suite and floor-to-ceiling views of the spectacular underwater world of the Great Barrier Reef.
Having changed into my swimmers and collected my wetsuit and snorkel gear, I set off to explore what I came here for: the World Heritage-listed Great Barrier Reef. Happily floating above vibrant coral gardens teeming with colourful fish, I even spotted one of the octopuses that the Reefworld team had seen romancing a female octopus a few days before. The ocean has a small dating pool apparently.
After the day guests had left Reefworld and one last guided snorkel tour, the pontoon became eerily quiet as only a small group of Reefsleep and Reefsuite guests were left. Freshly showered, we settled in for yet another magnificent sunset, whilst the team passed us obligatory cold ones and whipped up a banging charcuterie station. It hit the spot in the most perfect way, especially after a day spent in salt water and sun. After dinner, I ventured to the underwater observatory to say goodnight to the American Fridge Freezer-sized Groupers. Before tucking myself in for bed, I realised I could actually see the Milky Way in the night sky. I stayed awake for as long as my eyelids would allow, only to wake up very early the following morning to witness the sunrise, and the tide change leaving some of the the reef dry. After brushing my teeth and waving good morning to the local turtles, it was time to head to the mainland. This time, not via the two-hour cruise. A helicopter transfer whisked us back to Hamilton Island, along with a flyover of Hardy Reef’s infamous heart-shaped and aptly named Heart Reef and Whitehaven Beach.
On the flight to our final city later that day, my seat allocation was once again perfect for aerial views, as the Sydney Harbour Bridge and Opera House were on my side of the plane. A very strong introduction. 23500 miles and counting.
The last evening of the Journey Beyond Australia adventure was celebrated with dinner on board the 78ft cruiser, Spirit of Migloo in Sydney. The three-course menu was delightful of course, but the uninterrupted views of Sydney’s iconic sights lit up at night from the 360-degree top deck stole the show. Sailing by one of the most recognisable skylines in the world, gave me a sense of the size and scale of Sydney. Witnessing the city in real life after watching the New Year’s fireworks since I was young, cemented the need to return and fully experience its excitable and friendly vibe.
This sense of place and the desire to return marked the perfect conclusion to my Journey Beyond adventure. For me, travel is about tasting a destination and always leaving something undiscovered to ensure a reason to return. It’s a formula that helps reduce my fear of missing out and encourages me to live more in the moment. Each journey, with its blend of incredible experiences, enriched my appreciation for Australia’s endless wonders and fueled my wanderlust for my next adventure Down Under.
Darwin to Adelaide on The Ghan
7 nights from £4,499 per person. Singapore Airlines fly from London Heathrow to Darwin, Return Adelaide to London Heathrow from £1,434pp. www.singaporeair.com. For more information about The Ghan and Journey Beyond visit www.journeybeyond.com
Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront: Where Comfort Meets Culture
Set on Darwin’s vibrant waterfront, the Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront blends modern comforts with the city’s rich cultural heritage. Offering functionality, convenience, style and local charm.
The hotel’s location is a standout feature. Situated along the lively waterfront precinct, guests have easy access to an array of dining options, bars, and activities. Families will appreciate the green spaces lining the waterfront, perfect for picnics and leisurely walks. If you want to explore further, downtown Darwin, boasting charming boutiques, galleries, and the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory, is only a five-minute walk away.
Stepping into the lobby, you’re greeted by a modern ambience accentuated by vibrant Aboriginal artwork. While the common areas exude warmth, the guestrooms are more subdued in design and focus on functionality. Each room offers a kitchenette suitable for the more independent traveller. The rooms offer a comfortable retreat, with the highlight being the stunning waterfront views from some of them (definitely worth requesting!)
It is noteworthy that the hotel is part of Indigenous Business Australia’s portfolio, reflecting a commitment to Indigenous talent and culture in the hospitality industry. Staff undergo cultural competency training, and initiatives are in place to promote Indigenous leadership.
Temperatures can rise quite significantly in Darwin with an annual average of 24.7 – 32 °C, so the Wave Lagoon across from the hotel is the perfect place to cool down and relax in crocodile and stinger-free waters. It rolls out 10 different wave patterns, creating the perfect beach simulation.
The Adina Apartment Hotel Darwin Waterfront offers a comfortable stay in a brilliant location and is the perfect base for exploring the Top End.
Hyatt Centric Melbourne: the Urban Chic hideaway
Nestled in the vibrant heart of Melbourne’s CBD (Central Business District), the Hyatt Centric Melbourne offers contemporary sophistication amidst the city’s lively energy. With its sleek design, warm hospitality, and commitment to sustainability, this urban oasis offers a modern retreat for discerning travellers seeking both style and substance.
Upon stepping into the lobby, you are enveloped in a blend of modern elegance and inviting comfort. The interplay of clean lines of the brutalist brickwork softened by plush rugs and furnishings creates a welcoming atmosphere where guests can unwind and recharge after a day of exploring the city’s delights, or meetings.
Situated on Downie Street, just a short stroll from iconic landmarks like Crown and the South Bank precinct, the hotel boasts a prime location for both business and leisure travellers. If you’re in town for a conference or eager to explore Melbourne’s renowned culinary scene, the Hyatt Centric Melbourne serves as the perfect home base for your adventures.
The rooms at Hyatt Centric Melbourne are a sanctuary of contemporary luxury. The light wooden décor, with terracotta, beige, sage and dark accent colours make it feel warm and welcoming. It’s a sleek cocoon with seating arranged to enjoy the city view from the floor-to-ceiling windows.
But it’s not just the accommodations that make a memorable stay, the hotel’s facilities are befitting. Take a refreshing dip in the heated 25-metre pool tucked away on level six, where zen-like ambience and mood lighting create the perfect escape from the city’s fast pace.
The Level 25 Restaurant and Bar offers a curated menu of locally sourced ingredients with panoramic views of the Yarra River. For those on the go, Allie Lane in the lobby offers a quick caffeine fix or a delectable pastry to fuel your adventures. In the evening, the lobby comes alive with the soulful melodies of live music, creating the perfect ambience for an evening in.
The Hyatt Centric Melbourne provides its guests with an invitation to immerse themselves in the vibrant spirit of Melbourne, where luxury meets local charm in perfect harmony.
Discovering the Revamped Elegance of the Intercontinental Sydney
The Intercontinental Sydney, a jewel in the heart of Australia’s iconic harbour city, has recently unveiled a magnificent $120-million refurbishment, seamlessly blending historic charm with contemporary luxury. Nestled within the heritage-listed 171-year-old Treasury building, this hotel stands as a testament to timeless elegance and modern sophistication.
Situated at the crossroads of Sydney’s vibrant CBD and the picturesque harbour, the property offers unparalleled views of the Sydney Harbour Bridge, the Opera House, the Royal Botanic Gardens and beyond. The hotel’s location makes it an ideal base for both business and leisure travellers, providing easy access to key attractions, shopping districts, and dining hotspots.
The essence of the Intercontinental Sydney is captured in its unique fusion of old and new. The hotel is housed in the historic Treasury building, a structure rich with history dating back to 1851. The recent refurbishment, led by Woods Bagot, enhances this heritage with contemporary elements, creating a harmonious blend that is both nostalgic and forward-looking. I particularly enjoyed the curved, plisse wall, made with a mix of Verde Oceania marble and limestone, upon entering the lobby. The wall’s natural curve leads you into the Treasury bar, where the same marble continues in the design of the bar itself. Set in the atrium of the old Treasury building, its red brickwork, limestone arched balconies and lush greenery, create a warm and inviting space for a morning coffee, lunch or late-night cocktail. It’s the perfect place to admire yet another historic marvel: the exposed caged lift, which still operates between the first three levels of the 171-year-old sandstone building and is the oldest working lift in the southern hemisphere.
Culinary excellence is at the heart of the Intercontinental Sydney experience. The hotel boasts two new hospitality venues that have quickly become the talk of the town. The Aster Bar, perched on the 32nd floor, offers a 270-degree view of Sydney’s most famous landmarks. The elevated sky bar and dining space allows guests to indulge in exquisite cocktails, such as the highly recommended Beyond Margarita (it truly does go beyond!), while soaking in the stunning scenery. The outdoor seating area is perfect for enjoying a sunset drink with the girls or a romantic evening under the stars.
The Intercontinental Sydney has masterfully redefined luxury with its recent refurbishment, offering guests a unique blend of historic charm and modern elegance. Whether you’re here for the breathtaking views, the sumptuous accommodations, or the exquisite dining experiences, this hotel promises an unforgettable stay in one of the world’s most beautiful cities. The harmonious integration of the old and the new, the impeccable service, and the stunning facilities make the Intercontinental Sydney a must-visit destination for discerning travellers.
www.sydney.intercontinental.com
Heaven on Hamilton: Discovering Serenity and Splendour at qualia
Nestled on the northern tip of the tropical Hamilton Island, qualia is a secluded oasis amidst the breathtaking Great Barrier Reef. This serene retreat, spanning 30 acres of meticulously landscaped grounds, embodies the pinnacle of luxury and tranquillity, offering an idyllic escape for discerning travellers. Developed by the late Bob Oatley, esteemed Australian winemaker and patriarch of the Oatley family, qualia exudes a no-expense-spared ambiance, making it one of Queensland’s most exquisite resorts.
Chris Beckingham, responsible for qualia’s architectural design, envisioned a luxurious retreat that harmonises with its natural surroundings. The resort’s aesthetic is a fusion of open space and harmony, crafted from the finest timber and stone. Set amidst native foliage, each pavilion embodies a unique sense of privacy and serenity, creating a perfect sanctuary for its guests. The design philosophy, encapsulated by the word ‘qualia’— meaning a collection of deeper sensory experiences—reflects a commitment to sensory perfection and understated elegance. The overall aesthetic is modern yet warm, creating an atmosphere that is both inviting and exclusive.
Service at qualia is impeccable, with every detail thoughtfully curated to enhance the guest experience. Each pavilion comes with its own golf cart, making exploring the resort and the car-free island effortless and a lot of fun. The staff are attentive and personable, ensuring that every need is met with a smile. Facilities at the resort are top-notch, including two stunning restaurants, a serene spa, library, several pools and an array of water activities to be enjoyed from Pebble Beach.
Dining at qualia is an exceptional experience, with two outstanding restaurants offering diverse culinary delights. Pebble Beach, the resort’s waterfront restaurant, serves contemporary Australian cuisine that is fresh, healthy and pops off the palate – so satisfying. The reef fish with saffron broth: crisp and warming – a wholesome experience. In the evenings, Pebble Beach transforms into a fine dining venue with a tantalising tasting menu. The Long Pavilion, the resort’s other dining option, provides a more relaxed setting while maintaining equally high culinary standards.
Breakfast at qualia was also quite the occasion. Instead of going for my usual egg-based intro, I opted for a sweet start to the day and ordered the French toast. Best decision I’ve made in my life. I might have found God on that plate – imagine a thick slab of brioche, perfectly soft yet crunchy, generously coated in cinnamon sugar, and topped with a medley of fresh fruits, nuts, and a dollop of thick cream finished with a drizzle of syrup. Utter decadence and perfectly executed simplicity. Safe to say this dish has ruined any French toast experience I’ve had since.
qualia is more than just a resort; it is a destination that offers a perfect blend of luxury, natural beauty, and impeccable service. Whether you are looking to immerse yourself in the serene surroundings, explore the wonders of the Great Barrier Reef, or simply indulge in world-class dining, qualia provides an unparalleled experience. This secluded oasis on Hamilton Island truly epitomises sensory perfection and offers an unforgettable escape for those seeking a slice of paradise.
