Higher Ground: Seafood and Stillness Above the Square Mile
Fish cookery is where Angler stands or falls, and it stands very well. The Michelin Guide notes the “top-drawer fish” and pared-back treatment, including a now-famous roasted Newlyn cod, and that’s very much the energy at play. A fillet of John Dory might arrive with Coco de Paimpol beans, the skin crisped but not shattered, the flesh just at that point where it yields to the fork but still has definition.