There’s something to be said about pulling into the port of some far-flung Greek island, and feeling the eyes of locals and tourists alike locking onto the vessel you’re about to disembark; not in disdain, exasperation or resignation at yet another overstuffed cruise ship lumbering into harbour, but with a genuine sense of wonder and, dare I say it, a flash of envy.
That sense of astonishment, both for passengers and onlookers alike, is absolutely at the heart of what SeaCloud cruises do best. Utterly beautiful, each of the three tall-masted ships in this exclusive fleet has been meticulously designed to bring a swoon-worthy essence of romance and escapism back into cruising, matching utmost luxury with a real thirst for adventure. Whether you’re an old hand at being at sea or a newcomer to cruises like myself, once the mainsail is fluttering in the wind and the shimmering royal blue of the Aegean sea is gently lapping at the hull, it’s impossible not to find yourself swept away by the sheer drama of it all.
I was hooked, heartstrings plucked like a soppy Minoan lyre daubed onto an excavated urn, from the very moment I stepped on board.
Let’s backtrack a little. I had been invited for a seven-day cruise of the spectacular Cycladean Islands on board SeaCloud II. It’s an updated iteration (but no less packed to the gills with period features and swashbuckling charm) of the original SeaCloud tall ship, which slices through various parts of the Mediterranean and Caribbean seas throughout each cruising season. The itinerary alone would have been enough to lure me on board: launching from the ancient port of Piraeus in Athens, then spending a couple of days at sea aiming straight towards the Turkish coast. Stops were scheduled at Patmos, Naxos, Amorgos and Siros, before leisurely traversing the Aegean back to the mainland.
Athens was as hot, dry and hectic as it ever was and most likely forever will be – as much as I love the Greek capital for all its ancient wonders, it’s never somewhere I crave returning to. Our coterie of passengers (65 in total, from a rudimentary headcount, out of a maximum capacity of 90) filed onto SeaCloud II, each craning their necks on the gangway to attempt to soak in the length, breadth and undeniable beauty of the ship itself. Once aboard and greeted by the meticulously gracious crew, plucked primarily from Germany – where SeaCloud Cruises are based – as well as elsewhere across the globe, it was time to explore our home for the week to come.
The first of many pleasant surprises unfurled itself almost immediately. Due to both the commitment to opulence on board SeaCloud II as well as the relatively small number of passengers, no shortage of attention has been paid to the living quarters, which was the obvious first stop after sweatily moving through the capital all day. A bonafide suite – with more than enough room to swing a sizable catfish – awaited, complete with dressing area, large double bed, lounge and fully-fitted bathroom. A marble bathtub (with fantastic water pressure, in case you’re wondering) and gilded taps was beyond even my loftiest expectations, and was almost instantly made use of along with the array of L’Occitane products with which to luxuriate.
Luxury as standard in the guest suites
Suited, booted and thoroughly refreshed, I headed to the deck for the launch. We set sail with a satisfyingly Teutonic timeliness at seven o’clock sharp, and myself and my fellow guests (again, mainly Germans and Dutch cruise enthusiasts, along with just two very friendly Americans who were rightly making the most of their retirement) watched the myth-laden coastline recede into the background, a glass of Champagne taking the edge off the hustle and bustle of the day we’d all had. A bell chimed, and we descended into the belly of the ship to enjoy the first of several superb four or five-course dinners.
Once again – and this is going to become a theme throughout this article – all expectations were exceeded, and by a not-insignificant margin. Make no mistake, I expected the dining options on SeaCloud II to be good. I didn’t expect them to be as excellent as they consistently were. Each menu was curated as a melange of the best the Mediterranean had to offer; there was a strong emphasis on fresh seafood and fish (as there absolutely should be when in this part of the world), accompanied by the full gamut of assorted carpaccios, bisques, sorbets and seasonal delights. Particular highlights included a pitch-perfect lobster thermidor, spectacular local oysters, monkfish with a silkily moreish beurre blanc and a duo of veal with truffled mashed potatoes.
If the dining options all sound a little on the retro side, you wouldn’t necessarily be wrong. However, classics are classics for a reason… and this wasn’t the time or place for fiddly gastronomic flights of fancy or dishes designed to challenge the palate. This was a showcase of timeless elegance; the kind of silver service we’re all a bit too proud to admit we miss, and a good old-fashioned dose of European luxury dining done very well indeed. Flavours were spot-on. Wine pairings were thoughtful and effective, and just kept coming in generously-poured glasses. By the end of the first course of the very first dinner, I knew I was in great hands.
Several cocktails followed – mixed with a deft hand by a perma-smiling Serbian mixologist who knew his way around a good Negroni – and night fell with a velvety embrace. An hour of stargazing on the upper sun deck, complete with the whimsy of the milky way stretching from horizon to horizon, lulled me to return to my chambers. I awoke (as I admittedly often do) with a little confusion; I’d expected some movement out at sea, some lurching and rocking as we left terra firma in our wake. I pulled back the curtains to reveal an almost surreally calm sea, with oil-like ripples gently billowing past and no land in sight. Hypnotic in its tranquility, it’s one of the sights – and sensations – of this voyage that will truly stay with me.
The first full day was spent entirely at sea, as many nautical miles needed to be covered. The crew, who numbered more than the passengers in yet another display of attentive service, ensured there was no dip in the signature state of wonderment.
First, the ceremonial setting of the sails ensured quite the show – all 23 of them, crisp, white and open to dazzling effect. A trio of Zodiac inflatable crafts were launched to offer unparalleled views of SeaCloud II in all her glory (an absolute necessity, as for all the delights to be found on deck, it’s impossible to properly see the ship while sailing on her) against the backdrop of those calm azure waters. Later in the afternoon, a perimeter of floats was established in the sea on the starboard side, allowing for a spot of swimming in the open waters. I’d expected to find the concept of bobbing around with 3,000 metres of Mediterranean beneath me mildly terrifying. It was, instead, a heady blend of the exhilarating and the blissful, and an activity I’m grateful I took the time to enjoy.
Seacloud II in all her glory
On board, there was a steady stream of cocktails and other libations, an impressive buffet-style lunch (whole baked hake, parmesan-tossed pasta, freshly grilled king prawns and an interestingly Germanic take on a spanokopita among the highlights), a library, regular lectures on the history and culture of the Cyclades, and a fully-stocked gym for those keen to counteract the indulgences constantly at hand. Indeed, any worries of boredom were tossed to the winds, not least because the sea itself, again, almost an impossible shade of blue, provided an ever-shifting panorama of viewing pleasure.
It’s telling that it’s taken me this long in the article to get to the ports visited as part of this four-island Aegean cruise; so enjoyable was it to be on board and cutting through the sea. Of course, Greek island hopping is never less than a joy, and kudos must be given to SeaCloud II for selecting a quartet of outcrops relatively unknown to the tourist hordes. On this voyage, there’d be no time spent on Mykonos (the most overrated of the Greek islands) or Santorini (a close runner-up), but rather an exploration of islands offering a quieter, more culturally significant and – yes, I’ll say it – more authentic Cycadean experience.
First stop, Patmos. I was especially excited to land on this exceptionally beautiful island, which sits a stone’s throw from and within clear sight of the fabled Ikaria, where Icarus undertook the world’s first fateful skydive while showing off to his old man. Pristinely picturesque with a sweeping volcanic bay, Patmos has a particular draw for those (like me) with a passion for the stranger side of religious history – it’s where St. John the Apostle wrote down the Book of Revelations in the Cave of the Apocalypse, inspiring not only the bizarre end of the New Testament, but countless disaster movies and a glut of gospel and blues songs two millennia later. The cave itself is a treasure of the Eastern Orthodox church, and well worth a visit in order to soak up the copious vibes. For those seeking something a little less fire-and-brimstone-themed, Patmos has all the winding, historic streets, pretty tavernas and beach clubs you could wish for. Perfect.
The following day we dropped anchor in Amorgos. I’ll admit I’d never heard of this small island before, but it’s one that ticked every imaginable box of wishes for time spent in this part of Europe. There’s a stunning 13th century monastery cut into the mountainside offering genuinely jaw-dropping sea views (it was, I discovered, the setting for Jean-Luc Goddard’s seminal arthouse movie The Big Blue), a quaint historic hilltop town with chic coffee shops, artisan bakeries and restaurants, and an array of quiet, unspoilt beaches on which to while away the hours and indulge in some sea bathing. I’ll be back, without a doubt.
Naxos was next on the list, with its imposing Gate of Apollo welcomingly reminding us that Greece’s ubiquitous monasteries and orthodox churches weren’t the first holy rollers in the Aegean, and after a morning pottering around this slightly more tourist-centric island, it was time to set sail for Siros.
I loved Siros. Really, really loved Siros. For a while the capital of Greece and under the protection of Catholic Venice and France, Siros owes more architecturally to the Adriatic coast of Italy and Côte d’Azur than to the Cyclades – there’s a real air of sophistication, laid-back savoir-faire and la dolce vita that makes this central island stand out.
A lack of sandy beaches may keep many of the sun worshippers away, but give me a terrace with a chilled bottle of Assyrtiko and a diving platform from which to take a dip, and I’m a happy man indeed. The urban area of Siros, where SeaCloud II was stationed for the night, felt refreshingly like a real, bustling city, and wandering through its streets (and brushing shoulders with a host of beautiful young holidaying Greeks) was a fabulous break from the hazy, lazy wonders of the past few days. The sun set, the city sparkled and twinkled into life, a jazz band serenaded the city square and our ship oversaw the scene with a quiet elegance and assuredness. Again, I’ll be back, and hopefully sooner than later.
The sundeck
Seven days on board SeaCloud II passed far more quickly than I’d expected. A comfortable itinerary of both on-board and on-island adventures meant that the pace was consistent and yet never overwhelming, and there was a sense that you could stuff each day with cultural excursions and explorations, or laze around beneath the summer sunshine precisely as much or as little as one wished. The final gala dinner, for which everyone dressed to the nines and raised a glass to the exceptionally capable crew, was a five-course delight that truly showcased the galley team’s skill, and then the night drew in once more as we said our goodbyes to new friends and made our way back to Athens.
A cruise on board SeaCloud II through the Cyclades takes the concept of Greek island hopping to dizzying new heights of opulence. It’s an opportunity to see a side of Europe on board a vessel that not only looks spectacular, but which cuts no corners in elevating the experience to an encounter with excellence. As a voyage of discovery in the purest sense, criss-crossing a legendary seascape under sail, it was – in a word – unforgettable.
For more information, visit https://www.seacloud.com/en
