The sheer size of Thailand (and the vast amount of coastline and islands) mean that
one could probably spend a lifetime exploring and not cover it all. I hazard to guess that
would mostly be due to falling in love with somewhere, something or someone across
the myriad landscapes that the country offers.
In my younger days, I had done the north, the Changs, both Mai and Rai, and Ko Samui
and Ko Pha Ngan. Latterly, in 2023, I visited Krabi and Phuket, so now it was time to
tick off another of the thousand or so prospective spots that I feel compelled to cover in
the coming years.
Khao Lak is located in the Phang Nga province, north of Phuket, and about an hour and
a half drive from the region’s international airport. Quiet beaches and a more sedate
pace mark it out from some of the more party-specific areas, and the coastline is one of
white sand beaches, swaying palms and mangrove pools.
Our home for three nights was to be The Sarojin, a boutique luxury independent
property housing 56 rooms and set within seven two-storey buildings. All sit within
landscaped grounds encompassing ficus trees, mangrove pools, palms abundant and
lily pad pools, all a hop, skip and a jump from pristine, secluded white sands. That each
building is only two storeys means that they all sit below the tree canopy, which affords
both privacy and seclusion to the guests.
There are three main accommodation types: Garden Residences with large day beds in
the garden area. Pool Residences with good-sized private swimming pools, and the
simply wonderful Jacuzzi Pool Suites. These are sprawling suites with indoor and
outdoor showers, a huge soaking bath and on the sizeable balcony, a pergola-covered
hut tub. ‘Twas in this spectacular setting we would be spending our time.
Started by Kate and Andrew Kemp, The Sarojin is a resort whose primary ethos seems
to be that of family. I don’t mean that in the sense of hordes of miniatures running amok
across the grounds, but rather that every member of the staff makes you feel entirely
welcome. Indeed, Khun Kade, the general manager, genuinely made us feel like part of
the family and given the amount of time we spent drinking the fabulous cocktail list at
the beach bar, we may have become part of the furniture.
Over 200 staff are available to the 56 rooms on site. That’s a huge investment in
customer care, and the unique personal nature of each of them is encouraged and
welcomed. As an example, all residences are named after staff who helped rebuild the
site after the Tsunami disaster of 2004. This sense of family and memory is a core tenet
of the brand. Before COVID, staff numbered 300, and over the course of the pandemic,
whilst numbers decreased, those remaining were split into three work groups that
maintained the necessary functions across the site and from home.
Arrival was simple and swift at the International Airport at Phuket. We were met by our
driver for a private transfer, off the island itself, then approximately an hour and a half
north. One passes through the main drag of Khao Lak, and ten minutes further down
the road, you turn off towards the resort, which is a couple of kilometres off the main
drag. All this is conducted in air-conditioned, cold beverage luxury.
Turning into the resort and under the canopied reception, one’s eyes are immediately
drawn to the open courtyard-esque garden that the property flows around. The
reception area also opens out to the view (but discreetly to the side), and one can also
find a fitness centre and a beautifully crafted library space. The aesthetic is very much
Asian luxury. The palette muted, but hints of colour – very much in keeping with the flora
of the surrounding area – provide pops of interest. This flows through into residences
and the centre restaurant, Ficus, used for three daytime services. The only departure is
the Thai restaurant adjoining the bar at the beach, Edge. With wood cladding and muted
lighting, it is the epitome of beach cool and provides a vibe that is, well, super vibey.
The final building that the property houses is the fabulous spa, but more of that later.
Following a swift check-in and a coconut-based welcome drink, we were taken to our
suite. The pathways to the accommodations are separated from the main courtyard of
the property by a babbling stream that is traversed by interspersed little bridges.
Combined with the lush foliage, this provides a simple but effective barrier separating
sleeping from, well, everything else.
To the side of one of the two-storey buildings, a staircase ascends that brings us to our
room. Sumptuous is an understatement. The idea of wellness is obvious in the design,
with relaxation a key facet of all you encounter. One enters a vaulted living space with a
desk, daybed, cloakroom and bar area forming the heart of the suite. The bar area is
stocked incredibly well, with a wide range of glassware and also a high quality acrylic
range of all sizes for specific use in the jacuzzi, and replenished ice and water every
day. Opposite the cloakroom, a sliding door opens to your rainfall shower, which is
beautifully designed with a stone backdrop and a large potted plant. The bedroom itself
houses a four-poster king-sized bed, perfect for all types of activities. They are
renowned as a honeymoon destination after all.
The main bathroom is probably second-best in amenities. A huge egg-shaped free-standing bath,
flower petals, et al on our arrival. There’s another shower, for those perhaps less prone to
outdoor ablutions, and a huge mirror and vanity. This was truly a space well thought-out and
well-provisioned for guests. The best part, though, regardless of the weather Thailand would
try to throw at us, was the balcony. A space – 60% as wide as the suite itself – with a huge
daybed and a large, mosaic-tiled, infinity-edged hot tub. Heated when needed, cool as desired
during the humid and hot daytime. As a package, one could in theory never leave the
suite. But where is the joy in that?
For our first night, given the travel taken to get there, we opted to remain in and dine at
Edge. We indulged in a couple of cocktails to start, selected from a wide-ranging menu
including specialities of the property that were heavy in Thai flavours and easily quaffed.
The meal was a revelation as dishes that perhaps one may deign to know are suddenly
shown in a whole new light, with a distilled nature to the flavours and a lightness to even
what may be thought of as a heavier dish. Corn fritters were a highlight, to the extent we
ordered them again two nights later simply as a bar snack. And I don’t like sweetcorn.
The Tom Yum soup made all other Tom Yums seem redundant, and the duck and pork
dishes we had were melt-in-the-mouth, piss your pants delicious. All this taken in under
the starlight, beachside, with not a sound to be heard bar the waves.
Breakfast happens at Ficus. A glass-sided restaurant is placed in the middle of the
courtyard, but in the most part shielded from communal paths by subtle but strategic
planting. Inside also houses a wine pavilion where guests can take part in wine tastings
with the in-house sommelier. Breakfast is an event, it seems, in this neck of the woods.
A selection of pastries, fresh juices and ‘holiday juice’, in the form of sparkling wine all
greet you as you take your seat. The ever-smiling, attentive staff are happy to oblige
your needs. An a la carte style menu takes in international and Thai cuisine and caters
for every possible whim. Breakfast is available through to 18.00 for those intent on
relaxation, but Ficus changes its menu for lunch and dinner to a more Mediterranean
menu to complement the Thai offering at Edge. As mentioned, the Beach Bar provides
a diverse drinks menu and a cocktail menu that I made concerted efforts to complete.
Another win for team Aaron. The bar will also provide drinks and snacks to those
occupying the sun loungers and umbrellas provided at the beach, it being literally there.
It’s not only a lovely vantage point but secluded at one end of the sands, and that
means it is privy to very little passing foot traffic.
As mentioned, the resort also houses a secluded and supremely peaceful spa within the
grounds. Outside the courtyard perimeter and adjoining one of the larger rear streams, it
is an oasis of comfort, or perhaps pain, depending on one’s tolerance during massage. I
opted for an hour-long Thai massage with hard pressure and the aptly named Joy
provided just that. Knots kneaded. Muscles manipulated and limbs loosened, it was as
well-received a massage as I’ve ever been given. In fairness, I’m not a fan and other
than a Thai massage in Thailand, I would ordinarily opt for something a little more
restrained. But this was manna from heaven and I slipped away from the Spa as loose
as a person can be.
Such is the quality of the amenities, the graciousness of the staff and the simply
spectacular level of food and beverage, it is an easy proposition to remain on site for the
duration of ones stay, however long that may be. If one does want to venture further
afield, staff are happy to organise transportation. The main drag in Khao Lak is home to
various bars, restaurants and massage spots as one would expect. A quality range, of
course. However, on the night we ventured out, a £1.78 roadside Mojito and fried
chicken that had me questioning every other fried chicken’s right of existence were two
highlights. There are, of course, markets spread across various days and a mix of local-
oriented and tourist schtick to peruse and eat and quaff at. It’s an area that services
many and at 90 minutes from Phuket, a great choice for somewhere a little quieter. I
know if I were looking for a beach trip, that would be high on my agenda.
So, The Sarojin. There is little to say other than it left a genuine mark. The whole
country always does. But the resort provided such care and attention in a setting that is
unrivalled; food and drinks were a revelation at times, and to mark the occasion, Khun
Kade and my wife and I planted Mangrove trees at the rear of the property to honour
their pledge of ‘one guest one tree’. It was a wonderful way to mark the end of a trip,
incredibly well spent. I look forward to returning and seeing what becomes of our trees.
The resort can be contacted via www.sarojin.com
